Last Thursday, April 11th, 2024, the same day Kering tapped Louis Vuitton communications executive Stefano Cantino as deputy chief executive officer of Gucci, I stepped into the New Bond Street boutique in London.
I don’t like visiting standalone boutiques. Luxury fashion is supposed to be “desirable”, but the feeling I usually get is being chased. I wasn’t planning to visit this time either. But a few days before, I came across a Gucci burgundy leather bra top online (burgundy is my favorite color), and passing by the store, I felt this quick but persistent desire to take a look (desirability, huh?).
After the shakeup with a creative director change at the end of 2022, Gucci is under close scrutiny. Earlier in March, Kering issued uncommon preliminary information regarding Q1 2024 stating that comparable revenues of the brand, which accounted for 51% of Kering’s revenues in 2023, is expected to be down by nearly 20% YOY.
I’ve never really been a Gucci client. I had a client who, at some point, loved all their logo stuff and ordered it all the time. For me personally, who would identify her style as extremely boring, Gucci has always been too much.
But I fell in love with its latest RTW collection. Simple silhouettes, juicy splashes, along with what I call rich colors like burgundy, completely stole my heart.
And here I am, looking around the elegant light-lit flagship, which used to be an art gallery.
At the entrance, I am greeted by a shopping advisor.
⁃ I’ll be your assistant today, - he said.
⁃ What an amazing space you have here! - I replied, looking at the statement columns disappearing into the dark brown parquet floor.
This story won’t be about how grand the Gucci boutique is (but it surely is). As a customer relations consultant, I will point out the gaps in customer care I noticed during my short, unplanned visit. Just couldn’t help expressing my true admiration for the interior.
***
I know, that at the point when I entered the space I’ll be followed and each touch to any item will be carefully noted.
- Here we have bags, - the consultant said, pointing at the shelves along the walls.
“Well, I can see,” I thought to myself and just smiled.
***
🚨GAP identified
Consultants in the boutiques often follow the customer, asking questions about every single item they touch - “Do you like it?”, “Do you want to try it on?”. The way to interact with the client is usually mentioned in job instructions or during trainings. While this practice can’t be entirely eliminated, it significantly depends on the client’s preference in terms of interaction. It is enough for the consultant to mention that he is there to help if I need any assistance, and to be around, not behind my back. The client needs time to feel comfortable, which may be impossible when the consultant is overwhelming from the very beginning.
I don’t like having someone behind my back all the time, distracting me from understanding my thoughts on an item. Obviously, if I want to try it on, I will ask. As far as I know I’m not the only one like that.
***
I passed the bags and turned left in the small room with RTW. I noticed leather burgundy skirt which was a coordinated item to top. No top was there. The consultant was still behind my back.
I climbed the stairs in front and appeared to be in a shoes room with shelf’s from top to bottom through all the walls.
- I wanted to check the burgundy crop leather bra top, I saw the other day online. Could you please check? - I turned to the consultant.
He was slightly discouraged.
- I will show you the picture, give me a moment.
After I showed the pic he checked within the system.
- We don’t have it available here; and it’s sold out in all the other location. There is only 36 size available in Berlin (I can’t remember where exactly, that doesn’t matter).
***
🚨GAP identified
From time to time, I can visit the boutique to look for a particular item. It’s often the case that it is available in another location, I’d even say another country. It would be amazing if the brand could offer delivery for such cases. This service would need to be fully established with clear terms, for instance, regarding final sale items. Oh, I forgot, luxury fashion doesn’t like the word “sale”. No returns policy might also be a consideration. The service might be challenging to implement due to accounting reasons. However, if such a service is possible, it would be helpful and beneficial in terms of problem-solving. Perhaps it could be offered exclusively to high spenders, if the expenses are not economically reasonable.
I will focus on problem-solving connection to loyalty in further publications.
***
Meanwhile consultant and I headed to the stairs to reach the first floor. Answering his question I mentioned that prefer online over offline.
- But why? You can get such an experience in the boutique.
I smiled again.
- Here we have exotic leather goods - he continued pointing at the bags in other room we entered after stairs.
- What if I want to ship to Germany? Can you do that?
- Oh, yes, of course! We will get the price VAT deducted and ship it from here to Germany.
***
🚨GAP identified
I often order with delivery to other countries outside the UK. I know there is a Gucci online shop operating in Germany, as well as a bunch of my favorite multi-retailers. So, in case, for instance, I try something on but won’t buy it in London for some reason, and then decide to buy it, most probably I will go for one of the following options instead of asking the London boutique to ship to the EU and then deal with import duties and taxes.
On the other hand, there are brands that are eager to build a relationship with the client.
While I believe a consultant is interested in selling in the boutique he works in, I would shift this focus to selling the brand he represents. If a problem-solving approach were engaged, he would propose placing the order in Germany or whichever country I prefer, if they have a shop there - the most convenient and fast option. And he could still earn commission. However, his commission depends on the shop, not on client relations. He is not interested.
***
- But this import taxes - I told, - Brexit and all this things…
- Oh, yes, it affected so much on shopping!
- I used to work close to politics - I suddenly mentioned. It’s not my feature to tell about myself to strangers, - I believe this decision is something UK regrets, but officials are not ready to rewrite it back, they will lose votes.
He kept silent. As I moved to yet another RTW room he asked behind my back:
- Would you like to try it on? - I heard some desperation in his voice. He already asked once or twice before.
***
🚨GAP identified
The current commission-based approach on sold stock is not building trust and loyalty. KPIs must be reviewed. I have an idea to make it work, which I will leave for my consultancy.
If I were asked whether I like the collection, I would be slightly more engaged in the conversation, which could eventually lead to trying on and buying. This is another approach to communicating with a client to make sales.
***
At some point I catch myself at a thought that I would live here - in this spacious boutique. We went back to the stairs.
The assistant pointed at the stairs covered with oilscoth leading to the second floor.
- This will be for celebrities and VICs. If they want to take a closer look at high jewellery or collection and not to be noticed. You know, many of them don’t like attention.
I can relate. Does that mean I can consider myself as a Gucci VIC?:)
We went down the stairs and I mentioned:
- I’ve just read you have a new communications executive.
The assistant noded:
- Oh, yes…
As we headed to exit he asked:
- But where do you work?
I think he was surprised we had this chat about Germany, Brexit, politics, new Gucci communications CEO and burgundy leather top. Honestly, I usually don’t talk that much:-)
***
🚨GAP identified
Customer assistants should never ask more about private life of clients more then they want to tell. Even if they are very interested.
***
- It was nice to meet you, - we echanged the numbers. I will now have one more phone in the contact book as a reminder of desirability. Desirability of client by luxury fashion.
***
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