A few days ago, I was browsing Loro Piana's website and noticed a wide range of colors available for their signature Summer Charms loafers. Some years back, there was even an online (and likely offline) made-to-order option allowing you to select the sole, personalization, and main materials. Now, it’s nearly impossible to buy these shoes as a single purchase, so it’s no surprise that almost all sizes are sold out on the website today.
This shift occurred as the brand moved from a high-profile niche status to attract a broader audience. The Summer Charms loafers became a star product due to their relatively affordable price, comfort, and recognizable design.
At one point, Hermès Oran sandals were also hard to get, but not anymore. Visit any popular summer destination—and every second person seems to be wearing them. Cartier Juste Un Clou entry-level pieces may be heading in the same direction.
You might think this is great for business, but luxury positioning is a tricky matter. While it’s obvious that margins are often huge, the brand must work carefully to maintain its image and remain hard to get, as this plays a crucial role in sustainable development over the mid and long term. If every second person wears the same piece, it loses its spark. Mass appeal is the antithesis of exclusivity. Another factor is who exactly is wearing it, but that’s a topic for another time.
How do brands remain hard-to-get and thus desirable? There are usually two ways:
Scarcity (which is almost always artificial)
You already know how it goes with Hermes bags. Another example is The Row Margaux bag—currently very popular and not easy to buy, though still far simpler to get than a Birkin or Kelly.
Raising prices (many brands have overplayed this tactic over the past few years)
For example, after seeing huge demand for its newly released Rodeo bag, BALENCIAGA quickly raised the price to maintain scarcity (and, to a lesser extent, earn more).
Some brands, however, don’t use either tactic. Consider the much-talked-about Le Coeur shoes with heart detail, or ballet flats by Maison Alaïa. This brand keeps introducing new colors, offering more accessibility.
An example of a different approach in footwear is the Miu Miu x New Balance sneakers. They have been released in limited quantities across several seasons. I suppose the approach depends on if the model can achieve classic status in the longer term.
Personally, I’m not drawn to hyperbolic unattainability, nor am I fond of mass appeal that eventually turns into a faux pas. Still, I’d never refuse another pair of Summer Charms loafers, no matter how many people wear them. They’re the only pair of shoes that have never caused me discomfort, no matter how long I’ve walked—in one pleasant day in Paris, I clocked a full 29 km and still felt like new x
